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Wednesday, October 1, 2008

New York City and Washington, DC

Hello!

My feet are sore! We've spent the last three days touring New York City on foot. Although I've been to NYC on business, I've never come just to visit. So glad we decided to take advantage of the 79th Street Boat Basin on the Hudson River to pick up a mooring. NYC for $30 a night! Can't beat the price. And the location is not bad either. We're three blocks from 79th and Broadway and not too far from Central Park.

Central Park exceeded my expectations, truly a beautiful park. Negative news is what we hear, so my impression of Central Park was founded on reports of rape, murder and civil unrest. Not favorable. So I was caught by surprise to be walking through a beautifully landscaped, lush, tree-filled park, an oasis of peace within the surrounding urban congestion and noise. We went to the Natural History Museum, the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Guggenheim. Each offered visual as well as mental delights. And in each I was awed. The city's architecture is amazing. Every time I looked up there was another building worthy of more than the fleeting glance I gave it. Mostly we saw the exteriors of buildings, but in Central Park we ate lunch at the Tavern on the Green. The decor was so overdone that it was beyond tacky. (No offense to the New Yorkers reading this!) Yet it is a well known eatery in the park and we enjoyed the experience. After lunch we wondered over to the John Lennon memorial, an area in Central Park known as Strawberry Fields set aside to honor Lennon's memory. It was located near the Dakota where he and Yoko lived.

The city pulsed. It felt alive. And New Yorkers love their city. On Saturday we saw three wedding parties having their pictures taken in very public venues, the first on a Central Park sidewalk, the second in Times Square and the third on the steps of St Patrick's Cathedral as the 5:30 parishiones were making their way into mass! No one minded how public these events were. The couple in Time Square had to share their wedding video with cabs, trucks and the mass of humanity that fills the space. But they were enjoying themselves. The Catholic newlyweds didn't seem at all bothered by the throngs of worshipers and observers surrounding them on the steps of the Cathedral. On the crowded sidewalk by Lincoln Center we saw an older couple elegantly dressed for an evening out, he in a suit, she in a gorgeous black evening gown. They seemed out of place on the sidewalk with everyone else from street vendors to ogling tourists to serious business folks. But that appears to be New York, an eclectic mix of folks bumping and jostling as they move around their city.

In addition to the museums, we wandered around the New York Public Library. The interior was like something out of a movie. Grand, high-ceilinged reading rooms lined with books and filled with rows upon rows of wooden tables and reading lamps. And we went atop the Empire State Building. Too touristy for us. Felt like we were at Disneyland with all of the lines we had to wait in. Still it was a very NYC thing to do and I'm glad we went. A few mornings we had bagels and coffee in a neighborhood deli and one afternoon we even did a bit of grocery shopping in an neighborhood store. So crowded, but the variety of food was amazing. I only wish we could have spent more time in the grocery. But it was at the end of the day. We were tired and ready to get back home, to Aurora. New York is exciting, but exhausting.

We ended up leaving a day earlier than anticipated and didn't get to do everything on our list. We didn't get to see a show or go to the Fulton Fish Market. Still, it was a pleasure to visit New York City. And nice to do it for fun rather than for business! But I'll confess, as much as I enjoyed visiting New York, I was happy to return to the peace and quiet of our boat. The city assaults the senses; it's loud, visually chaotic and full of odors.


From New York we headed to Washington, D.C., sailing all day and stopping only to anchor overnight, Atlantic Highlands, Atlantic City, Worton Creek, Solomons Island on the Chesapeake, Wicomico River off the Potomac, and finally up the Potomac to Washington, DC. We anchored in the Washington Channel, just 4 blocks from the National Mall and within easy walking distance of many D.C. sites. For $15 per day we had access to the Capital Yacht Club dinghy dock, laundry, showers, lobby, bar, and mail service. Not too bad! And a metro station was within walking distance, so we easily traveled beyond the immediate locale. Not having a car, accessible and reliable public transportation is much appreciated.

We've enjoyed Washington. This visit we've spent days touring and still did not "see it all." The museums are amazing. The art impressive. The government buildings a bit different with their multitude of marble statues and neo-classical style. Still their embodiment of liberty is inspirational. We toured the Capitol, the Library of Congress, the National Archives and the Supreme Court. We viewed both the House and the Senate floors in session and sat in on a Senate committee meeting. We wandered through the office buildings of both the Representatives and the Senators. One day we visited the Jefferson Memorial and then walked across the bridge over the Potomac to Arlington Cemetery. The changing of the guard at Arlington's Tomb of the Unknown Soldier was impressive and serious.

Security is everywhere and intrusive, but access to buildings and sites was not limited. Although I was surprised to see many of the guards carrying M-16s. One guard near the Capitol looked incongruous standing under a large tree holding an M-16 while dressed in shorts, his summer uniform. He appeared more like a boy playing "war" in his backyard than a man keeping watch over our Capitol's safety. Protection in the form of arms is necessary, but I'm not used to seeing such weaponry.

One day I went over to the Mall by myself and took in the Richard Avedon Portraits of Power exhibit at the Corcoran Gallery of Art. Avedon is considered the most important portrait photographer in America during his six-decade career. Wandering through the exhibit I was reminded of the Diane Arbus show I saw at the MOMA in San Francisco. Although these artists approached photography and more to the point their subjects in different ways, Arbus capturing people, many times those on the fringe, candidly and in their environment while Avedon posed his subjects, mostly the famous and powerful, in front of a white background, each was able to capture the raw humanity of their subjects, the imperfections that make us human. The Avedon photographs were not pretty pictures, but they held the observer, evoking visceral responses. Although the Avedon show focused on the powerful, the photo that stayed with me was that of a napalm victim, an unknown Vietnamese woman. There was no hiding the horror of war in the image, in the woman's severely scared face and blinded eye. So what is more important, the wielding of power or the result of that wielding? The majority of Avedon's portraits are of individuals in which power is manifested. And yet the most compelling image I viewed called to task those who wield power.

Washington is a place filled with history and at the same time is is a place where history is being made. Our visit coincided with the rejection of the initial bailout proposal by the House of Representatives and the first presidential debate between McCain and Obama. To watch the unfolding of a presidential election as it takes place from a Washington venue, is new for me. It feels different than on the west coast.

We've had access to the Metro in Washington and been able to get to Costco. The wine is priced well, so we took advantage and restocked our supply of California Cabernet Sauvignon. But while shopping for wine, Ken found the electronics department and the new large-screen TV's. Remember we've have no TV and limited internet access for the past two years. The array of TV's was too much for Ken. After thoroughly checking out their stock, he asked me what style I preferred, matt or glossy finish? Wide or narrow frame? Back lit or flat screen? 60" or 73"? Turns out we might have to settle down just so we can purchase an enormous TV. Ah, the joys of a consumer society! For the time being, we'll continue to live with our computer screen and the occasional DVD rental movie. Although,with the help of an antenna he purchased at Radio Shack, Ken was able to get broadcast TV on our computer while we were in Washington, DC. So we got to watch the initial presidential debate. Well, I did. After having set it all up, which was no small feat, Ken zonked and I stayed up by myself to watch McCain and Obama debate.

Two years ago we began our adventure not knowing what the future had in store. We anticipated an ocean crossing and possibly years of cruising. After two years of boat life, we realize that an ocean passage is not in the cards for us and that boat life, although interesting, is not how we'll spend our future. We're headed to the Annapolis Sail Boat show with the goal of putting Aurora on the market. We've enjoyed our adventure, but have come to understand that cruising on a 46 foot sailboat is not a long-term lifestyle for us. There are a lot of reasons, but mainly we've discovered we're not very good sailors! In addition, the constant maintenance and associated cost wear on ones spirits and pocketbook. So, we'll be putting Aurora up for sale soon.

What does the future hold? Not sure. We could always return to work. Or we might purchase a truck and trailer and spend the next year or two traveling around the Americas. We'll see. Of course all this might change if we spend any more time in Costco! We might just settle down so we can purchase a large screen TV! Of course with the economy where it is we may well end up living on Aurora for a good long while before she sells.

Tomorrow morning we weigh anchor and head back to Annapolis. It is 160 miles and will take two days, anchoring overnight, to get there. Once in Annapolis, we have to clean up Aurora and get her ready to show. Looks like we'll be working on boat projects for a while.

Cheers!

Maryann

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